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Tackle tough recoveries with OPENROAD’s 13500lbs 4x4 electric winches. IP68 waterproof, wireless remote, pure copper motor, and built to last for any 4WD mission.

Electric Winch FAQ

Electric Winch FAQ More
1. What is a winch? ＋

A winch is a mechanical device that uses a rotating drum to pull in or let out a rope or synthetic cable, enabling you to tow or lift heavy loads. On a 4×4, it’s driven by a 12 V electric motor and gearbox, providing controlled, powerful pulls for off-road recoveries and vehicle towing.

2. What winch pull rating do I need for my 4×4? ＋

A good rule of thumb is to choose a winch rated at 1.5–2× your vehicle’s gross weight. For most Aussie 4×4s (2–3 tonnes GVM), that means a 9 500–12 000 lb (≈4 300–5 400 kg) winch at minimum. If you regularly tackle extreme terrain or heavy bull bars, step up to a 13 500 lb (≈6 100 kg) model like the OPENROAD winch for extra peace of mind.

3. What warranty does the winch come with? ＋

OPENROAD electric winches include a 1-year warranty on all electrical components and a 3-year warranty on mechanical parts, covering defects in materials and workmanship under normal use.

4. Is the OPENROAD winch suitable for my vehicle? ＋

The OPENROAD 13 500 lb (≈6 100 kg) electric winch is designed for 4×4 vehicles up to about 6 tonnes GVM. To confirm compatibility:

  • Check your vehicle’s GVM – your winch rating should be at least 1.5× your gross weight.
  • Verify mounting points – ensure you have a compatible winch-ready bull bar or mounting plate.
  • Confirm battery capacity – a healthy 12 V battery (or dual‐battery setup) is recommended to deliver full power under load.

5. Is our IP68-rated winch safe for creek crossings? ＋

Yes—IP68 means the winch is completely dust-tight and rated for continuous immersion in water (typically up to 1.5 m for 30 minutes). OPENROAD’s sealed motor, control box and connections can handle shallow creek crossings without damage. Just keep these points in mind:

  • Avoid deep or fast-flowing water — IP68 covers immersion at moderate depths, not high-pressure jets.
  • Secure the control box above the waterline if possible to protect remote and solenoid.
  • Rinse and dry afterward — flush off mud, sand or salt and let it dry to prevent corrosion.

Electric Winch Motors in Australia: PM vs Series-Wound

By OPENROAD Team • • 8 min read

G’day legends—if you wheel a ute or wagon in the bush, your electric winch motor is the heart of your recovery setup. Aussie conditions are brutal: heat waves, salty beach air, sticky clay and steep High Country pinches. This guide breaks down motor types, gearing and ratings (in plain English) so you can choose a winch that’ll pull you out when the arvo turns pear-shaped.

Why the motor matters (and why Australia is a special case)

On paper, many winches share the same “rated pull”, but in the real world the electric winch motor and gear train decide whether you crawl out smoothly or cook your gear on the first long pull. Our terrain is unique: long sand drags on K’gari (Fraser Island), slow shale climbs in the Victorian High Country, or muddy ruts in the Top End. High ambient temps and heavy loads mean heat management and duty cycle aren’t “nice to have”—they’re the whole game.

The two big pieces

  • Motor: Permanent Magnet (PM) vs Series-Wound (SW).
  • Gear train: Typically planetary (fast, compact) or worm (very controlled, slower).

Both combine to determine line speed, current draw, and how long you can pull before needing a breather.

Winch motor types explained

Permanent Magnet (PM) motors

PM motors use fixed magnets in the stator instead of powered field coils. That design can be lighter and, at light loads, often draws a bit less current than equivalent series-wound units.

Pros:

  • Generally lighter and cost-effective.
  • Efficient at lighter loads—handy for quick, short pulls or repositioning.

Watch-outs for Aussie use:

  • Heat soak: In hot weather or long, heavy pulls (think soft sand), PM motors build heat faster; as temperature rises, output can sag and current draw can climb.
  • Magnet fatigue: Over time and repeated thermal cycles, magnets can lose some field strength.
  • Duty cycle discipline: PM units reward short, smart pulls with cool-down intervals.

Best for: Light-to-medium duty, weekenders, lighter rigs, or where budget is the priority and pulls are short.

Series-Wound (SW) motors

SW motors use field coils wired in series with the armature. When load increases, they deliver big torque for a given current—making them the workhorse choice for heavy recoveries.

Pros:

  • High torque density: Excellent grunt under load and better resilience to heat.
  • Stable performance: Current draw stays more predictable throughout the pull.
  • Heavy-duty chops: Suits long, slow recoveries—exactly what beach bogs and clay climbs demand.

Considerations:

  • Usually heavier and a bit pricier.
  • Will still get hot—no motor is magic—but SW handles heat stress better.

Best for: Touring rigs, dual-cab utes with canopy weight, travellers towing campers, and anyone who does frequent or heavy recoveries in summer.

Horsepower, torque, line speed—what actually matters?

You’ll see specs like horsepower (HP), line speed (m/min), and current draw (A). Here’s how to read them in the Aussie context:

  • Horsepower (HP): More HP typically means more torque and faster line speed, if the gear ratio supports it. Don’t compare HP in isolation—look at current draw and duty cycle too.
  • Line speed: Faster is great for resets and light pulls, but sustained heavy pulls at high speed make heat quickly. Planetary gearsets are fast; worm drives trade speed for control.
  • Current draw (A): Your alternator and battery need to keep up. A typical 12 V 4WD system can support peak draws in the hundreds of amps—but voltage sag is real. Keep engines running while winching and use quality cabling.
  • Duty cycle: No winch is 100% duty. Plan on “pull, pause, pull”—more pause time in summer.

Quick rule of thumb: For steep or soft terrain, choose torque and thermal resilience over headline speed. A solid electric winch motor with a sensible ratio beats a fast but fragile setup every day of the week.

Gearing 101: why gear ratio changes how your motor feels

  • Planetary gears (most common): Compact, quick, and efficient. Great all-rounders for 4WDs.
  • Worm gears: Self-locking behaviour and superb control; slower and can be less efficient, but excellent on controlled technical descents or for precise pulls.

Higher numerical ratios (e.g., 265:1) ease the motor’s load (lower current draw) but slow line speed. Lower numerical ratios (e.g., 150:1) feel faster but tax the motor. In Aussie heat, a slightly taller ratio with a strong series-wound motor is often the sweet spot.

How winch ratings really work (and why amperage is the ceiling)

A winch’s “rated capacity” is measured on the first layer of rope on the drum. As layers build, effective pulling power can drop 30–40%. Most 12 V systems hit practical limits around 400 A—push beyond that and you risk voltage collapse or cooking your electrics.

What to look at on the spec sheet

  • Pull vs current curves: Not just the max rating—how does it hold up across the pull?
  • Line speed under load: Empty-drum speed is marketing; loaded speed is what matters.
  • IP rating and sealing: Salt and red dust are merciless—seek proper sealing (IP67/IP68) and maintenance access.
  • Thermal protection: Over-temp cut-outs or sensors are your mates on long pulls.

Australia-specific considerations

  • Heat and environment: High ambient temps reduce cooling headroom. SW motors tolerate heat better; PM motors need stricter rest intervals.
  • Salt & sand (beach driving): Rinse and re-lubricate after trips. Protect electrics; check for corrosion on lugs and earths.
  • Red dust (Outback): Fine dust finds everything—sealing and regular inspections are non-negotiable.
  • Electrical system health: Use short, fat cables; keep joins clean and tight. A healthy starting battery (or dual-battery setup) helps manage voltage sag. Engine on while winching; consider an upgraded alternator only if you know your loads.
  • Rope choice: Synthetic rope: Safer and lighter, kinder on hands, floats in water—great all-round. Wire rope: Durable against heat and sharp edges, but heavy and stores more kinetic energy—use dampers and gloves.

Choosing the right motor for your rig

Go Series-Wound if you:

  • Drive a heavier touring rig (barwork, dual batteries, canopy, drawers).
  • Do long, slow recoveries (High Country climbs, deep mud, beach bogs).
  • Travel remote and want maximum thermal resilience and torque.

Consider Permanent Magnet if you:

  • Have a lighter SUV/ute and mainly need quick, occasional recoveries.
  • Want a budget-friendly option and you’ll be disciplined with duty cycle.
  • Mostly reposition, tension lines, or assist controlled descents.

My design take: For most Aussie touring builds, a quality series-wound electric winch motor paired with a sensible planetary ratio is the most forgiving, all-weather choice.

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